Saturday, January 17, 2009
(I'm having trouble loading pix, so I'll add them in later.)
We touched down at Bole International Airport in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia very late on Friday night. The packed flight took a while to unload, and we were some of the last to deboard. We had not received our little cards to fill out for our visa until just before we landed, so those were not completed yet. We'd been told that Bole was a modern airport, but our first impressions were bad ones. We unloaded into a very dirty basement area, and then crowded with dozens of other people around two small tables to try to fill our cards. To fill them out we had to access every passport and copy the tiny numbers onto the cards for all the adults and each child. It seemed to take forever. Other people rushed through and got in line for their visas, and we finally finished our big stack of cards. We were just about the last people in a long line that disappeared into a doorway. So, we waited there with our big stack of carry-ons and our very tired kids. At one point the children just had to go to the restroom, so we searched around and found an outhouse type of bathroom (hole in the floor, etc.) Not at all what I was expecting, and later we found out that the rest of the airport is a lovely, modern facility. We just hadn't made it that far into the airport, yet. The line crept along, and after 20 minutes we could tell this was going nowhere fast. We found a bench nearby and I took the kids to lie down on our pile of jackets, while Mike kept us moving as the line moved. Finally, it was our turn to be duly stamped and certified to visit Ethiopia, and we were on our way to get our luggage.
Baggage claim was astonishing. There were several carousels, but only one was being used just then. We were amazed to see hundreds and hundreds of unclaimed bags stacked 20 ft high against a wall on one side. We snagged several of our bags, but soon discovered that 2 were missing. We waited some more, we sifted through the stacked luggage in case it had been shoved aside, then we went to the window to report it missing. That seemed to take forever, as more paperwork was filled out. We were told to check back in a few days for the lost bags. By this time the kids were absolutely exhausted, and we were all getting cranky fast. We'd been milling around Bole for more than 2 hours, and we were ready to find a bed.
We finally were able to walk outside to meet our Holt driver, Dawit. He was waiting in the chilly outdoors for us, and had unfortunately been there for several hours. He was kind and gracious and helped us navigate the men who were hanging around the parking lot hoping to be hired by us to carry our luggage. We got tucked safely into our vans and we enjoyed visiting with Dawit as he drove through the quiet streets in the wee hours of Saturday morning. I have to admit that the drive was sobering. The poverty you see in Addis is quite disturbing, and our hearts went out to the people who struggle every day in this large city.
The very best thing about the Union Hotel was its location. It sits close enough to the Holt Care Center that I could almost feel my sweet baby S sleeping nearby when we unloaded and climbed the stairs to our rooms. Our rooms were clean and we had plenty of space to spread out. Mike and I and the boys shared a suite with a bedroom, and R and Gram and DDon shared the room next door. We could see that the staff had taken great care to get everything ready for our stay, and we all fell into bed after a good washing up, and we slept hard - until the prayers began. Then we woke up, rolled over, and tried to sleep some more. Public prayers are broadcast over an extremely loud speaker, and it sounds like it is right outside the window. Unfortunately, they start chanting the prayers in the middle of the night and continue for hours on end. There were also lots of barking dogs and traffic sounds to keep things interesting. We live in the country, so we aren't used to sleeping with the sounds of the city! But we managed fine, and the kids used a white noise machine that we brought, since the noises were much louder in their room. Overall, we did very well and we felt well cared-for during our stay at the Union Hotel.
We had arranged to meet baby S first thing Saturday morning. So, after a few hours of sleep we grabbed some breakfast from the restaurant on the hotel ground floor. They served oatmeal, thin pancakes (sort of like a crepe and very tasty), syrup, and fruit. (Our children, who love fruit and veggies, were under strict instructions not to eat any produce or juices while on our trip. We know that many people are much more adventurous than we were, when it comes to food, but we decided early on that we would take absolutely no chances since the children were traveling with us. So fresh fruits were strictly off-limits. And boy, was that hard! We all sorely missed our fresh fruits and veggies.) The restaurant loved to please us, and the chef and staff doted on the children. We had several delicious meals there, and on many occasions we were so thankful to have good, hot food available just downstairs. Sometimes our order was what we expected, and sometimes it was something else entirely. Sometimes the power would go off and the generator would have a hard time catching up, so the food would be hours late. But the staff always worked very hard to please, and we appreciated their kindness and commitment to us during our stay.
Tamrat (the administrator of the Care Center) and Dawit met us in the lobby to take us over to meet S. We were so excited! Finally, all those months of paperwork, months of waiting and months of praying to bring this baby home were ending. We were finally going to hold our baby girl, and the kids were going to kiss their little sister. It was a wonderful moment.
We got our cameras ready and trooped through the Hotel gates with big grins on our faces, nodding our hellos to the kind gatekeeper, across a broken sidewalk, and into the gate of Holt's Care Center. Up the giant outer staircase we went, where we shucked our shoes and stepped into slippers we'd brought. ( I just love the nannies for that rule! We have a no-shoe policy in our house, too, and I appreciate their efforts to keep the grime off the streets from tracking in where the children play.) We stepped through the big doors into a bright, cheerful, immaculately clean house ~ completely empty of children. The big playroom in front of us was empty, and everything seemed quiet. We were lead upstairs by a nanny, dressed neatly in a blue uniform with her hair pulled back in a scarf. The spiral staircase took us to a landing, and then the nanny pointed to a door. By the twinkle in her eyes, it was obvious that our little S was behind that door. My tears started flowing before the door even opened.
I stepped through first and saw a neat, but crowded room, full of little tray-beds, cribs, and playpens, all with mosquito nets tucked above them. There were several nannies smiling at us, and the one who came forward to meet me said in English, "Find her!" They obviously enjoyed this part of the process, as all of them watched me, smiling. I turned to the first little bed on my left and there was a precious little cherub looking up at the ceiling. But our last photo update of baby S showed she had little soft curls, and this sweet girlie was bald! Plus, this baby was so chubby and was smiling. That didn't really match our paperwork, either. Then I glanced at the card above her bed and saw the name ~ Agegnehush. It was our baby S! I leaned over her face and when she saw me she smiled a huge smile and squealed and laughed!! Wow. What a moment! I asked permission to pick her up, and they laughed at me as if to say, "Of course!" I scooped her up and held her close. She was absolutely perfect. Perfect little toes, and sweet little fingers, and smooth, chubby cheeks. She was so, so beautiful and amazing and precious and adorable.
I looked her over closely. Yes, there were the same pretty eyes, and the same beautifully-shaped head. But she looked so much better than any of her photos, it was such a huge blessing to see how far God had brought her already. She smiled and coo-ed and looked us all over for several minutes. I passed her to her Daddy, and he snuggled her and cried on her, too. Big sister R planted several kisses on her head, then Mike stooped down so the boys could get a look at their baby sister. As soon as baby S saw her brother she laughed out loud! (And to this day, they still have that effect on her.) Then each family member had a turn at holding our new, sweet baby. It was so wonderful to finally be all together in one place. I asked the nannies what happened to her curls, and they assured me "It will grow back." I found out later that the children are often shaved to keep down the spread of ringworm and lice and other scalp problems.
The nannies just loved S so much, and you could tell they were enjoying watching us getting to know each other. One, in particular, stayed with us while the others buzzed around the room clucking and talking to babies, soothing and feeding, and passing around toys. Soon, S had a dirty diaper and her special nanny motioned for me to follow her to the changing room next door. We went in and I talked to S while her nanny adeptly cleaned her up, then motioned and said with her lovely accent, "wash." We went into the bathroom, where a large bathtub held several 5-gallon buckets of water. The nanny turned on the tap to a trickle of cold water, grabbed a bar of soap, and lathered up baby S's bottom. Then she rinsed her bottom, and took her back out to the changing table for a clean diaper. My heart ached to think that sweet baby S had never had a real bath, where she could splash and play with toys and soak and get clean from head to toe in nice, clean, warm water. At that moment, I couldn't wait to get her home to give her a good bathtub bath.
Before we traveled we tried our best to learn some Amharic words and phrases so we could talk to S in her language. We did our best, but I asked her nanny if I was pronouncing one term correctly. I wanted to say,
"You are my baby," to let S know that she belonged with us, and she finally had a family. I tried my best to pronounce it, and asked,
"Is this right? Yah nay lij?" The nanny nodded, then added with a big smile,
"Yah nay lij ME!" She put her hand on her chest to show me that the "ME" is what made the baby MY baby. She was so pleased that I was trying to talk to baby S, and she obviously approved of the phrase I'd chosen to begin with. So, I repeated it over and over to Sarah, along with
"Eh wah di shaloh", which means I love you. All the nannies were thrilled we'd tried to learn words, and I'm sure they were pretty tickled when our Texas accents came through loud and clear. I cherish those special moments and conversations with the kind women who had loved and held and cared for S while I was not able to. I especially appreciate baby S's special, dear nanny. Her love for baby S was so apparent, and she was so very happy to see S in my arms. It was very, very touching. That very special lady is forever in my heart.
We all passed S around for over an hour, then it was time to go downstairs for playtime. We held our breath as we carefully carried her down that giant, slippery, marble spiral staircase, with nannies behind us carrying two kids at a time. We went into the cheery playroom below, and our children had so much fun playing with the toddlers and older children. HA and HW passed out toys that they had picked out and purchased back home especially for the children. We all took more turns holding baby S, while the nurse filled me in on the baby's daily habits and likes and dislikes. It was soon snack time, and a nanny brought baby S a big stainless steel cup of thick, green liquid. I politely asked what it was and the nurse replied,
"Mashed avocado and orange juice." And I thought
I started babies young on veggies! She drank it down and whined for more. They laughed and brought her another cupful. She drank some then fell asleep in my arms. I tried hard to think of all the questions I should ask, and I was so grateful to have that one-on-one time with baby S's nurse.
We had noticed that S had some yucky drainage from her nose and eyes. I asked if she had been ill and they nurse said no. But, it was obvious to us that she had a bad sinus infection, at least. I couldn't wait to take custody so we could begin treating her. It was hard to think of how many days, or weeks, baby S had had a miserable cold, or an earache, or a sore throat, or an aching head. It broke my heart to think about S, and all the other children, needing medicine or treatment and not being able to get it. Although the Care Center staff does a wonderful job of caring for the children with what they have, they are limited in what they can do. A chronic sinus infection was some of the least of the problems that children experience in Ethiopia, and the nurse made it clear that medicines are just not available for those kinds of "minor" conditions. Another sobering moment, and a time to pray for all those babies and children who live every day with conditions we never have to tolerate here in the U.S. We are so very blessed to be able to care for our children and keep them healthy and comfortable. Again, I couldn't wait to get her home.
Far too soon it was the babies' naptime, so we had to go back to the hotel. We met the other nice family who had come to bring home their precious daughter. We all rested a while, ordered room service for lunch, and then had another visit at the care center with baby S, while the other traveling family met their sweet baby girl. When we arrived after naptime, baby S was striking this precious pose.
We enjoyed every minute just snuggling sweet baby S!
Sweet Baby S with her Daddy
It was so much fun playing with all the children, rocking and holding babies, and tickling toddlers. We have some wonderful memories of those other special, precious children who were waiting for their forever families. R especially loved holding several preemie and malnourished babies. She was so loving and sweet with them, and they really responded to her extra attention. Though we became attached to all the sweet children, it made it a little easier to leave them at the end of our trip, knowing that in the coming months most of them would be coming home to their forever families, too.
That evening Dawit, Tamrat, and Tamrat's sister took us to the Crown Hotel for an evening of traditional Ethiopian food and music. It was fun, delicious, loud, and exciting.
Dawit, our wonderful guide, driver, and friend
Amazing entertainers at the Crown Hotel
We tasted all kinds of traditional foods, had our first taste of that wonderful Ethiopian coffee and popcorn, and saw traditional dances and clothing representing the different tribes in Ethiopia. We came back to the hotel very late, exhausted, and so very happy that so many wonderful things had happened in one packed, amazing day. And we slept well, in spite of the noise, because we knew our precious, happy daughter was just next door.